成品检验 Checking of finished products检验,检查 inspection, check商检 commodity inspection领面松 wrinkles at top collar领面紧 top collar appears tight领面起泡 crumples at top collar领外口松 collar edge appears loose领外口紧 collar edge appears tight底领伸出 collar band is longer than collar底领缩进 collar band is shorter than collar底领里起皱 wrinkles at collar band facing底领外露 collar band lean out of collar倘领偏斜 collar deviates from front center line领窝不平 creases below neckline后领窝起涌 bunches below back neckline驳头起皱 wrinkles at top lapel驳头反翘 top lapel appears tight驳头外口松 lapel edge appears loose驳头外口紧 lapel edge appears tight驳口不直 lapel roll line is uneven串口不直 gorge line is uneven领卡脖 tight neckline领离脖 collar stand away from neck小肩起皱 puckers at shoulders塌肩 wrinkles at shoulder袖隆起皱 creases at underarm袖隆缝起皱 puckers at underarm seam塌胸 lack of fullness at chest省尖起泡 crumples at dart point拉链起皱 wrinkles at zip fly止口不直 front edge is uneven止口缩角 front edge is out of square止口反翘 front edge is upturned止口反吐 facing leans out of front edge止口豁 split at front edge止口下部搭叠过多 crossing at front edge底边起皱 wrinkles at hem后身起吊 back of coat rides up背衩豁开 split at back vent背衩搭叠过多 crossing at back vent绗棉起皱 puckers at quilting絮棉不均 padded cotton is uneven边缘缺棉 empty hem绱袖不圆顺 diagonal wrinkles at sleeve cap袖子偏前 sleeve leans to front袖子偏后 sleeve leans to back前袖缝外翻 inseam leans to front袖口起皱 wrinkles at sleeve opening袖里拧 diagonal wrinkles at sleeve lining袋盖反翘 top flap appears tight袋盖反吐 flap lining leans out of edge袋盖不直 flap edge is uneven袋口角起皱 creases on two ends of pocket mouth袋口裂 split at pocket mouth腰头探出 end of waistband is uneven腰缝起皱 wrinkles at waistband facing里襟里起皱 creases at right fly夹裆 tight crotch短裆 short seat后裆下垂 slack seat前浪不平 wrinkles at front rise裆缝断线 bursting of crotch seam裤脚前后 two legs are uneven脚口不齐 leg opening is uneven吊脚 pulling at outseam or inseam烫迹线外撇 crease line leans to outside烫迹线内撇 crease line leans to inside腰缝下口涌 bunches below waistline seam裙裥豁开 split at lower part of skirt裙身吊 split hem line rides up裙浪不匀 skirt flare is uneven线路偏移 stitch seam leans out line双轨接线 stitch seam is uneven跳针 skipping尺码不符 off size缝制不良 stitching quality is not good洗水不良 washing quality is not good熨烫不良 pressing quality is not good极光 iron-shine水渍 water stain锈迹 rust污渍 spot色差 color shade, off shade, color deviation褪色 fading, fugitive color线头 thread residue毛头 raw edge leans out of seam绣花不良 embroidery design out line is uncovered
3. missed/missing+sth at +部位 ---服装的某个部位缺sthmissed/missing+工序---漏了某道工序(1) 漏车缝---missed stitching(2)欠垫纸---missed tissue paper(3)缺纽扣--missing one button at the left cuff
7.____+mark---表示。。痕迹(1)pencil mark铅笔印(2)glue mark胶水印(3)fold mark折痕(4)wrinkled mark 起皱(5)creases mark 皱痕
8.起吊:hiking at+部位 或者:部位+ride up
9.easing--吃势。ease on+部位+uneven--某部位吃势不均 。例如在绱袖、上拉链、绱领子,都会要求“吃势要均匀”。如果在验货时发现某部位吃势太少/太多/不均,我们就要用到easing这个词。(1)前中领圈吃势太多---too much easing at CF neckline(2)袖山吃势不均---uneven easing at sleeve cap(3)前中拉链吃势太少--too little easing at front zipper
10.线迹。线迹+部位---表示某部位用什么线迹。SN stitch=single needle stitch车单线;DN stitch=double needle stitch双线;triple needle stitch三线;edge stitch车边线;overlock with 3/4/5 threads--三/四/五线拷边;(1)SN stitch at front yoke(2)edge stitch at top collar
12.某部位起泡、鼓包导致不平服。Crumple/bubble /bulge/bump/blistering at+部位(1)bubbling at collar领子起泡(2)Crumpled at top collar 领面起泡
13.反吐。如里布反吐、止口反吐、袋布暴露等部位+visible部位1+leans out of +部位2(1)袋布外露---pocket bag visible(2)克夫止口反吐---inner cuff visible(3)前中反止口---facing leans out of front edge
14.把。。。绱到。。。。Set-in /sew together A and B /attach ..to... /A assemble to B(1)绱袖:sew sleeve to armhole、set in sleeve、attach sleeve to body(2)绱克夫:sew cuff to sleeve(3)绱领:set-in collar
15.unmatched--常用在:袖底十字缝未对牢、不对格/条、裆缝未对牢(1)十字缝错位--unmatched crotch cross(2)前中不对格/条---unmatched stripes &checks at CF(3)袖底十字缝未对牢--unmatched under armhole cross
16.OOT/OOS---out of tolerance/out of specification超出规格/公差(1)胸围超出规定尺寸2cm---chest OOT +2cm(2)衣长少于规定尺寸2cm---body length front from HPS-hip OOS-2cm
18.污渍、斑点等。(1)dirty spot at collar---领有污点(2)Water stain at CF-前中有水渍(3)Rust stain at snap 急纽有锈迹
19.部件+not secure---某部件不牢固。常见的有钉珠,钉纽扣。。(1)beads stitching not secure--钉珠不牢(2)Insecured button
20.布纹用错或丝缕歪斜wrong or slanted grain line at +部位(1)前片的丝缕错误--wrong grain line at front panel(2)裤腿丝缕歪斜导致裤腿起扭--leg twisted because of slanted grain line at leg(3)布纹裁错--wrong grain line cutting
22.部位/工艺+isn't follow sample exactly 某部位/工艺未按照样衣做(1)pocket shape and size not follow sample exactly(2)embroidery on chest not follow sample exactly
23.服装问题+caused by +原因(1)shading caused by poor color interlining matching(2)front edge twisted caused by no easing at zipper
24.服装某处太松了、太紧了部位+appears+loose/tight ;too loose/tight at +部位
3.纺织服装验货中常遇到的问题?
(A) 一般性问题
(A) GENERAL DEFECTS:
1. 油漬(汚漬):1. Soil (Dirt)
a. 油、墨、膠水、漂白劑、粉筆、機油或其它汚漬a. Oil, ink, glue, bleach, chalk, grease, or other stain/discoloration.
b. 任何回清潔、染色或其它工工序後剩余的化學劑b. Any residue from cleaning, dying, or other application of chemicals.
c. 任何不適的異味。c. Any objectionable odor.
2. 不符合指定的要求:2. Not As Specified
a. 任何不符合要求的尺寸或超出可接受的范围a. Any measurement not as specified or outside the tolerance.
b. 主料、颜色、配件、及附件等与与确认的样板有差异的b. Fabric, color, hardware, or accessories different from sign-off sample.
c. 替代品或漏装的部件c. Substituted or missing parts.
d. 如要求与主料配色时所有与原面料标准不配衬的配件或配饰。d. Poor match of fabric to an established standard or a poor match of accessories to the fabric if a match is intended.
3.面料瑕疵3.Fabric Defects
a. 破孔a. Holes
b. 有可能导致布料穿孔的潜伏瑕疵b. Any surface blemish or weakness that could become a hole.
c. 布料起皱或有抽线、抽纱现象c. Snagged or pulled thread or yarn.
d. 面料编织瑕疵如粗糙纱粒及抽纱等d. Fabric weaving defects ( Slubs, loose threads, etc.).
e. 不均匀的染色、喷胶、托底或其它整理e. Uneven application of dye, coating, backing, or other finish.
f. 面料结构、―手感‖或外观不符合已批核的样板。f. Fabric construction, ―hand feel‖, or appearance different from sign off sample.
4. 开料方向4. Cutting direction
a. 所有绒毛皮料必须依照我们的方向指示开料;a. All napped leather have to follow our instruction of direction when cutting.
b. 任何涉及到开裁方向的面料,如灯芯绒料、针织料、印有或织有图案等布料都必须依照GEMLINE 的指示开裁。b. Any fabric concerning cutting direction like corduroy/rib-knitted/printed or woven with pattern etc had to follow
GEMLINE’s instruction.
(B) 结构性错误
(B) CONSTRUCTION DEFECTS
1. 车线:1. Stitching
a. 缝线与大身料颜色不配衬(若货品要求与大身料颜色须相配衬时);a. Sewing thread different color from main fabric (if a match is intended).
b. 车线不直或车线移位,缝入邻近的部分;b. Stitching not straight or running into adjoining panels.
c. 断线;c. Broken stitches.
d. 针数不少于规定的每英寸车线针数;d. Fewer than specified stitches per inch.
e. 跳线或漏针e. Skipped or missing stitches.
f. 双线不平行f. Double row of stitches not parallel.
g. 有针孔爆裂或线孔痕迹g. Needle cut or stitch holes.
h. 车线太松或带有线头h. Loose or untrimmed threads.
i. 倒针要求如下i. Return Stitching requirement as follows:
I). 真皮小贴— 倒针两下两条线头必须拉到皮贴背面、打上结并用胶水贴在皮贴背面。I). Leather tab- 2 return stitches and both thread ends has to be pulled down to the back side of leather tab, using 2 ends to tie
a knot and glue it down at the back of leather tab.II). NYLON (尼龙) 袋— 所有倒针不能少于三针。
II). On nylon bag – All return stitches cannot less then 3 stitches.
2. 接口/驳口2. Seams
a. 接口处弯曲、扭曲或起摺皱a. Crooked, twisted, or puckered seams.
b. 接口敞开b. Open seams
c. 接口未用适当的边骨、包边带修边c. Seams not finished with appropriate piping or binding
d. 参差不齐或接口修边不圆滑。d. Ragged or unfinished edges visible
3. 附件、装饰3. Accessories, Trim
a. 拉链布边颜色与拉链不配衬如需要配色时a. Zipper tape’s color does not match, if a match is intended
b. 金属配件生锈、刮花、颜色不符或失去光泽b. Rust, scratches, discoloration, or tarnish of any metal part
c. 撞钉或铆钉未能完全装配紧密c. Rivets not completely attached
d. 有不良部件如拉链、扭扣、勾扣、魔术贴、插扣等d. Defective parts (zippers, snaps, clips, Velcro, buckles) e. 漏装配件
e. Missing parts
f. 配件及饰物与原批核板不符f. Accessories or trim different from sign off sample
g. 边骨挤压或变形g. Piping crushed or deformed
h. 拉链头与拉链齿不吻合h. Zipper slider does not fit with the size of zipper teeth
i. 拉链固色。i. Color fastness of zipper is poor.
4.口袋4. Pockets:
a. 口袋因装歪而与大身不平行a. Pocket not parallel with edges of bag
b. 口袋尺寸有误。b. Pocket not correct size.
5. 补强要求5. Reinforcement
a. 在肩带撞钉背面必须加上透明胶圈以作补强a. The back side of all rivet which to be used for shoulder strap needs to add a clear plastic ring for reinforcement
b. NYLON (尼龙袋子的手挽车缝处背面必须加上2MM厚透明PVC以作补强;b. The back side of stitching for attaching the handle of nylon bag has to add 2mm transparent PVC for reinforcement.
c. 内格有笔插、口袋、及橡筋等必须在其背后加上2MM厚透明PVC以作补强c. The back side of stitching for inside panel which attached with pen-loop/pockets/elastic etc has to add 2mm transparent
PVC for reinforcement.
d. 当安装背攘手挽织带时织带两端必须车回口并覆盖与袋身的接口,并非只是把织带插入大身料后缝上而已。经过此工序后,缝包边带的车线仍然能再次车过织带因此袋顶的手挽应该车有两行车线把手挽固定。d. When sewing the top handle webbing of backpack, both ends of webbing had to be turned and covered the seam allowanceof body (Not Just only inserted the webbing between body materials and sewn together), After this processing, the stitching of binding should also stitched through the webbing too, so the webbing for top handle should have 2 stitching of attachment.
e. 任何用PVC托底的面料如须要产薄以便于弯角加工时弯角处应用胶水粘上420D尼龙料以作补强。e. Any fabric backing of PVC had been skived away for achieving return edge purpose, a 420D nylon piece should be glued inside for reinforcement when sewing through area again.
四、案例:如何写一份标准的服装验货报告?
那么,如何写一份标准的验货报告呢?验货包括应该包括如下10点内容:1、验货日期/验货员/船期2、品名/款号3、定单号/客户名4、被检待出运货品数量/抽验箱号/抽验货品数量5、箱唛/装箱搭配/UPC贴纸/宣传卡/SKU 贴纸/PVC 胶袋及其它辅料正确与否6、尺寸/颜色正确与否。做工情况。7、发现的CRETICAL/MAJOR/MINOR DEFECTS,列表统计数量,根据AQL判断结果8、验货意见及改正提高建议。CARTON DROP TEST结果9、工厂署名,(有工厂署名的报告)10、第一时间(结束验货后24小时内)EMAIL传出验货报告给相关的MDSER和QA MANAGER,并确认收到。